Khuri: On the fringes of Thar

| Last Updated: January 9, 2013 at 12:07 PM

Khuri is cleaner and more peaceful alternative to Saam dunes

I normally desist from sharing details of remote getaways that I come across. But you can blame it on the high this last one has left me in, which makes me want to talk about it profusely.

Khuri is a little village, 50 km from Jaisalmer in Rajasthan, close to the Thar desert. How close? About 25 minutes walk from the village centre takes you to the sand dunes.

It really was the back of the beyond till a few years ago when everyone who wanted to see the desert went to the Saam dunes. However, as Saam gets increasingly crowded, expensive and filthy, people are discovering Khuri as a cleaner and more peaceful alternative.

There are a couple of resorts on the outskirts of the village now, in addition to the older, more authentic home stays. I chose to give the resorts a miss and head to Badal House. Badal Singh, who runs the oldest home stay, is a man of some stern (and impressive) beliefs. For instance, he refuses to run a full house because he doesn’t want to burden his family with excess work. Or that whether New Year or not, he gives out rooms at the same rate all year round, food included.

Many visitors choose to split their Khuri sojourn into a night in the village and one in the desert. A local camel herder generally packs in supplies and bedding for the night and off you head to the dunes. A dinner of bajre-ki-roti with a simple vegetable and dal is followed by a night under the stars. A little tip here: like at high altitude, the desert offers an ideal setting to star gaze. If you have a good camera, you could even set it up long enough to capture the entire star spiral for the night, which is infact what many tourists do.

There really is nothing else for you to do in Khuri. Your days are spent idling in the sun with endless cups of goat-milk chai and regular home-cooked Rajasthani meals. You could choose to walk around the village or head to the sand dunes for a brilliant sunset. Switching off your mobile phone and giving into the glacial pace of Khuri is highly recommended. For a change of routine, you can head to the local co-operative society shop to buy the mirror-work bags, bed spreads, quilts or wall hangings that have been handcrafted by the women in Khuri.

First Published: January 9, 2013 at 9:05 AM

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